FoodVerse (Tea Tales)

<p style="text-align: center;">Tea Talk

It’s not everybody's cup of tea to brew the tea in perfect fashion. That’s absolutely true. Better still, opt for the easier route to merely dip those puny hexagonal white sachet bags in a whirly amber brown stream to sip from a piping-hot cuppa! Well, it's an art that needs to be mastered with patience, perseverance, skill and accuracy until the steaming beverage gives out a heavenly aroma, an authentic flavour and a kick of refreshing energy.

By PRAMITA BOSE

Tea Theatre

The choice of leaves or granules, the frothy bubbles in the seething water, the spewing of cloudy white smoke from the kettle spout, the pouring of gurgling coloured liquid in a teapot or a thermos, the tinkling sound of the coupling of a ceramic cup and its saucer and finally, the drinking of the delight to warm the throat and satisfy the craving on a summer morning, during a muggy monsoon or on a chilly wintry evening make the craft of tea-making purely irresistible. From the century-old tea trees on the lofty mountainous slopes to the shrubbed plantations down on the plains, tea could be both desirably high-end and accessibly massy.

Diverse Forms

Cutting chai, karak chai, kulhar ki chai (served in terracotta cups), conventional milk tea with sugar crystals, masala chai (spiced tea), ginger tea, turmeric tea (with anti-inflammatory properties), cardamom tea, scented ashwagandha (Indian winter cherry or Indian ginseng tea) chai, pink tea or gulabi chai or nun chai with salty flavour and a dash of baking soda added in it, Kashmiri kahwa, sweet neem tea, iced tea to beat the sweltering summery heat, lemon tea, the Japanese matcha tea (green tea leaves ground into fine powder and brewed into tea by dissolving in hot water, also used as a flavouring agent), the traditional Chinese oolong tea, Tibetan butter tea (primarily made from tea leaves, water, salt and yak milk butter), Tunisian mint tea, sweet tea (sweetened iced tea popular in southern US wherein tea is saturated with excess of sugar, which is added at the time of or immediately after boiling the water), tandoor tea (clay or earthen pots are warmed in a pre-heated tandoor in which half-prepared tea is poured to fizz and be ready to be sipped. The hot pot renders a tempting smoky flavour to the beverage), malai chai, basil leaf tea, fragrant jasmine tea, hibiscus tea and a cup of healthy black tea or laal chai with no milk and sugar to taste are some of the must-try samples across the globe.

Best of Both Worlds

If coffee is classy with its famous cafe culture or the old school precincts of coffeehouses that today enjoy a heritage status as the meeting hubs of a city's culturati that once comprised a melting pot of ideas, craft and vision through eminent philosophers, poets, authors, journos, musicians, painters, et al, tea is available to all and sundry within the gamut of social hierarchy right from an elite mansion to a middle-class home or to a small roadside refreshment stall. Beverages in many parts of the world represent a crucible of food culture, creativity and lively confabulations. 

A Royal Affair

The iconic tearooms add an old-world charm and a hint of sophistication to the city’s major check-out zones. They are like the landmarks of a specific vicinity, which are hard to miss and ignore. Whether it is the cold nip in the air or the sun’s glare, the monsoon’s first shower or the spring’s fresh blossoms, a tea and snacks joint could be an ideal point to unwind. 

The official hi-tea rounds with fritters and nibbles during conferences held amid industrial magnates are a part of that ubiquitous business formality. The rolling tea trolleys on terraces with wheels and tiers serving the hot beverage to noble guests with tasty, crunchy treats on trays filled with squeaky clean crockery-cutlery sets, milk pot, sugar pot, tidy spotless white napkins and a hand-embroidered or printed puffy, padded tea cosy covering the teapot reflect the good old refined Anglicised culture of the British era. A brush with regality, a whiff of aristocracy and a facet of the bygone eons paint an enthralling picture of tea, oozing out its bona fide taste and tint in style.

Stress Reliever and Energy Refill

Whether to overcome the morning blues and drowsiness with bed tea or to switch on the mood from an afternoon slumber mode, one cup of this fluid gem can act as an antidote to several stress-ridden thoughts weighing on the mind.

Tea has the power to easily raise a storm in a cup over animated discussions surrounding politics, current affairs, socio-economic scenarios and so on. It's the chai pe charcha addiction that attracts all passersby in the streets to converge to a cheap teashop for a moment of respite and rejuvenation via a stimulating indulgence.

Simple Street Saga

A modest tea kiosk on the pavement is a typical feature of the day-to-day flurry of street activity with endless cups over bouts of adda sessions. It scores as a key interesting subject for many click-happy lensmen. The chatter of a herd of customers, some standing while some seated on timber benches, the vehicular traffic movement during the rush hours, the political processions, campaigns and protest marches, the hawkers’ flea markets, the streetside slum dwellers’ daily chores and of course, the quintessential tea shops and makeshift fruit carts. Eminent lady photographer Leena Kejriwal’s timeless snaps on footpath tea stalls begot a beautiful series a few decades ago, winning her critical acclaim from all over.

The characteristic sooty aluminium kettle, a large mug and the handled saucepan, the jarring stove, the rusty iron griddle, the flickering bluish orange flame, the plastic sieve to strain the tea leaves from the dark-toned liquid, the boiling yellow milk mixed with a sprinkle of tea powder, rows of transparent plastic/glass jars replete with toast biscuits and cherry flecked tiffin cakes, a basket of eggs, loaves of bread, the clattering of utensils and the clinking of brittle glasses for serving tea — well, all this is enough to deliver a plate of humble breakfast comprising slices of bread layered with glazy blobs of butter and a couple of boiled eggs or a thick omelet wrap to tick off from the menu.

Global Identity

The fabled legend of a Chinese emperor discovering tea while resting under a tree when a spray of leaves blowing in the breeze fell into a vessel of water that his attendant was boiling, is told and circulated by and large countless times. Immediately, the green leaves touching the warm surface of the heated water turned brown. Since the ruler had expertise on the plant kingdom, he urged to taste the transformed liquid. Thus, tea was recongised that later went onto become one of the most popular beverages in the world, earning a household name.

From the communist state of China to other tea-producing and growing nations like India, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Turkey, Indonesia, Iran, Japan, Kenya, Argentina to down under — New Zealand (noteworthy for its sole and world-famous commercial tea plantation, Zealong) — the tea belt extended its geographies far and wide from southern and eastern Asia to the rest of the world. Many countries are only engaged in tea trade, importing and exporting the beverage as a cash crop in order to reap commercial gains.

Reading a book in solitude over a cup of tea/coffee in a quiet corner of a beverage bar, winding up the pending office workload on a laptop in a secluded site with a cuppa close at hand, conducting business meetings over a cuppa and snacks, couples having romantic dates over ‘the cup that cheers, but not inebriates’ (allusion to English poet Thomas Cowper’s 1785 poem, The Task), buddies hobnobbing over freewheeling chitchats with teacups in hand…. all these are but variegated beads strung together to weave a tapestry of tea tales handed out in the very traditional way as in a samovar (a highly decorated tea urn used in Russia), thermos, flask or a teapot.

Moonlit Magic

The unique ritual of moonlight tea plucking with ‘two leaves-and-one bud’ as the universal symbol of a perfectly picked tea leaf is fascinating to say the least. Last April in the early weeks, this festive ceremony was hosted with great fanfare at the Makaibari Tea Estate, one of the oldest plantations snuggled in Kurseong. The idyllic tea garden is located in the Himalayan foothills within the northern district of Darjeeling in West Bengal.

The magical night came alive amid a cluster of flaming torches under a moonlit sky. A moist weather with slight drizzle accompanied the illuminated evening that took centre stage, like a melodic musical interlude. A colourful cultural fete ensued with the song-and-dance routine wherein local labourers participated in the community programme playing the ethnic instrument of dhol and rendering folk music. Such initiatives lend a boost to the tea industry and uplift tourism with foreign delegates being invited as the chief guests to grace this significant occasion and also, other official dignitaries witnessing the spectacular event.

Cha Bar

It’s mid-summer. The scorching sun is right overhead. The glare is just too hot to bear. The sky looks bright in its clear blue hue and the street wears a jaded look despite the rush hours. One needs a desperate gust of wet wind to cool down in no time and just breathe at ease. But the orange orb above simply refuses to relent. As the heat intensifies and more sweat beads gather on the forehead, you long for a cosy corner to guzzle in a mug of cold liquid with ice cubes to enjoy some instant relief amid your daily grand and a fatiguing commute.

You push the heavy door inward to enter the AC-controlled Oxford Bookstore. Suddenly an enchanting world unfolds before your eyes to captivate your consciousness and you get the vibe of an ‘Alice in Wonderland’. It is as if a slice of magic realism sails around you like a boat, and you wish to embark on it to head for a new journey and escape from mundane materialism. Bumping into tomes all over of varying sizes, thickness and colours, the place seems to elevate itself with a promise of transporting you completely into a realm of rich culture and aesthetics.

Volumes of international and regional titles are displayed on the shelves in a systematic arrangement with labeled sections for rack raiders’ browsing convenience so that not a single book gets misplaced. As you leisurely meander through the aisle bypassing the bookstands and showcases, you reach the wooden staircase that takes you to the mezzanine floor upstairs.

As you climb up the steps, you may hear intermittent sounds generated from your footwear touching the solid surface beneath. The structure is beautifully sculpted out to merge with the glossy varnished wooden flooring leading to the tea junction christened Cha Bar at the end.

The L-shaped area is framed with wooden grilles and glass panels. Boasting sleek décor and smart designs, the read-and-drink nook pleases the visiting guests at any time of the day with its curated art specimens. After you comfortably settle down at a table, you expectedly ask for the signature iced tea to quench your thirst and drench your parched throat. The first sup of the silken cold fluid lets out a caressing effect and you know it tastes amazing! Well, this might give you the impression of an ‘on-the-rocks drink’.

As you glance through the zone, an array of amusing notes and interesting quotes welcomes you with a parti-coloured collage of tea trivia. The ambience of this 55-seater tea hub always feels sublime with its pristine combination of books, culture, art and beverage catered to a diverse traffic.

The artifacts, the elegant colour scheme with an occasional pop of shades, the table-chairs in monochromes — all but punctuate one expression and that’s sophistication. Read the lines, turn the pages and soak in the ‘tea-snacks’ synergy with boba tea or bubble tea (a sweet Taiwanese drink stirred with a mishmash of tea, milk, fruit syrup with the flavours of mango or strawberry and balls or ‘pearls’ of tapioca, served hot or cold), a platter of fish and chips, club sandwich, pizza, pasta, and so on. Time flows by from morning till night with store opening duration spanning from 11 am to 9 pm.

Serving 155 types of tea, the Cha Bar’s menu maps the tea trail from one corner of the world to another. “Well, we have a plethora of options for our customers, right from the spicy South African rooibos, Chinese tea, Ladakhi chai, Japanese matcha, Russian caravan, Moroccan mint, Arabic spicy indulgence, Kashmiri kahwa, wholesome Ayurvedic teas with medicinal value, therapeutic Indian herbal teas accentuated with tulsi (basil leaf) and gulab (rose) flavours to other varieties,” shares manager Soma Ghosh.

When quizzed on the fish ingredient used as a filling in the ‘fish and chips’ item, she responds to the query informing that it is the “tantalizing Vietnamese basa” that is adding the essential substance to the recipe. “The beauty of this fish is that it doesn’t emit that sharp disagreeable fishy smell. It is packed with juiciness and has chunks of tender white meat to gorge on. And the icing on the cake is that it is served with a layer of bread crumbs on top, lending it a crunchy texture,” she elaborates on the contents.

Incidentally, the summer special menu got launched in the first week of April to tingle the taste buds of city food connoisseurs. Relish the scrumptious goodies on offer ranging from ice-cream sundae with chocolates and fruits like strawberries, cherries, grapes, watermelons, pomegranates; Oreo sundae with crispy, flaky biscuits; soft brownie sundae to spongy ice-cream sandwich among others. “The interesting part of this dish is that fried ice cream is placed in between the sandwiches and is served intact without an inch melting,” Ghosh reveals about the delicious titbit.

Hosting a slew of book launches, music events, play enactments, dance renditions, band gigs, movie pressers ahead of releases and other colourful performances on the cultural calendar, the tea stop metes out a warm welcome to its recurrent celebrity guests. “I remember popular Bollywood filmmaker Anurag Basu once dropping by. Although he was having a fun day out here but grew perpetually anxious about getting mobbed,” recalls Ghosh. She further apprises that even talented Tollywood actor-director Parambrata Chattopadhyay had come calling for Sahitya Utsav and multifaceted media personality Mir too showed up to anchor a soiree.

A mesmerising collection of rare memorabilia arrests the city tourists’ and gourmands’ attention, the very minute they throng to the haven of tea. Patterned wall frames, wall-hanging holders, doodles drawn with messages, translucent spherical aquarium bowls housing a school of artificial gold fishes, dummy teapots, jugs, kettles, cups and mugs in a solid palette on wall brackets (all for display), eye-grabbing furnishings, floating shelves, a tall cabinet with chest of drawers, indoor green plants, emblazoned salvers, a wall façade dotted with reputed visitors’ snapshots…. each and every object and element narrates a unique anecdote of its own.

These are all carefully culled from around the world and exhibited at one of the most widely frequented haunts in Kolkata on the premises of its 105-year-old Oxford Bookstore address, which flaunts a nationwide chain of outlets. For the uninitiated, this is Priti Paul’s — director of Apeejay Surrendra Group — creative offspring dwelling on the robust pedestal of the formidable group’s expertise in tea plantation business for generations. 

Flurys

You may sniff the oven-fresh aroma of nicely baked hot chocolate and fruity-flavoured cakes or other fluffy goodies soon after you promenade into the Flurys on the arcade at Mother Teresa Sarani. The very name and address strike a chord straightaway if you are a staunch Kolkatan. Well, you ought to swear by this tearoom and bakery from the pre-independent times.

The burbling sound of Darjeeling tea liquor forming minute ripples in a cup with a crusty chicken patty, mutton patty, chicken tikka patty, chicken and capsicum envelope in tow as ready snack items delivered over the counter to grab a quick bite from could just be the perfect invigorating start to your day. Rest assured, the sporks, trays, dishes, textured tissues as wipes and condiments will take care of the remaining drama cast at the food concert.

“We have a different kitchen for the purpose of doling out breakfast, lunch and dinner menus with options of salads, pasta, sandwiches, main courses, etc. at customers’ disposal,” inputs Prasanta Das from the customer desk.

The vibrant and bustling Park Street (now Mother Teresa Sarani) is synonymous with a slew of retail establishments and commercial behemoths — Trincas and Flurys being two of the most notable names among them. On the brink of its centenary celebration, to be commemorated three years hence in 2027, the historical tea room of Flurys with its rich legacy still stands tall at an intersection of its prominent street corner.

The European etiquette associated with a tea party and table manners harks back to the colonial times of the British Raj. The silent subtlety of the erstwhile customs would bring out the true essence of a sublime performance. For making a brew and prepping for it is nothing short of a painstaking execution of a craft. The stewards and hostesses would imbibe the gravity and nitty-gritty of that decorous gentility with meticulous detail and utmost precision.

In between your spells of window shopping, peering at the store signboards, skimming through the collection at upscale boutiques or digging into savouries at an eatery, you can never miss hopping in at the tea-cum-confectionery store only to get immersed in its milieu and the bill of fare that are steeped in with a period feel.

“We are proud of the teeming footfall that is composed of an eclectic fabric aged from eight to 80. From old-time loyalists to new-age youngsters, all pay a regular visit to this venue. I even remember seeing foreigners trooping in all the way from Switzerland,” highlights Tusar Chakraborty, senior assistant manager, F&B Service, Flurys.

You are unmistakably hit by a clump of giant decorative Easter eggs or the ornate Poila Baishakh embellishments reminding you of the upcoming Bengali New Year (15^th April 2024, marking the beginning of annum 1431 on the Bengali calendar) celebrations or fortunately getting to taste the very beautifully designed Eid special cake with a spiritual vim in your heart, if you are visiting the place this month.

The trademark black-and-white chequered floor, the sprawling area, the curvy counter tops, the large round pillars, the chandeliered ceiling, the approximate 70-75 covers to be served...it is impossible to overlook the way the overall interior is done up in muted shades to appear soothing to the eyes.

If you have a sweet tooth, you may pamper it with an assortment of pastries and desserts, especially the alluring rum balls, a mouthwatering medley of chocolate sponge cake, cocoa and rum. From the yummy Easter spread, choose panettone, simnel cake, marzipan, nougatine, bento, hot cross buns, carrot cupcakes, cookies, lamb and onion savoury tart, et al at a price range between Rs 100 and Rs 2,500. For a sumptuous Bengali New Year feast, opt for rosomalai cheesecake, gondhoraj chicken croistata, shorshe machher puff roll, baked labanga latika, mihidana cake and the enticing Poila Baisakh theme cake weighing one kilogram, all available at a price band of Rs 120 to Rs 2,200.

Steered by the distinguished Apeejay Surrendra Group since the 1960s’ retro era, Flurys has been setting high standards in the gourmet bakery and confectionery segment in India. A team of swift smart staff, attendants and chefs add a personal touch to their service suite by guiding and suggesting their steady clientele on the choice of meals, bulk orders and private parties.

Operating from 8 am to 10:30 pm, Flurys has hitherto stood the test of times, never losing its sheen and resilience amid a vortex of cloud kitchens in the wake of digitization. Surprisingly, it never faced a threat from the virtual domain. It is still alive and kicking with dignity and success in its own secure space, accredited with a veritable list of the who’s who of the international culturati.

In recent times, a minuscule portion of the acclaimed Oscar-nominated movie Lion (a 2016 release) was shot in Flurys. Also, avid Bollywood lovers would gladly recollect the reference of Flurys in the 2005 period piece Parineeta starring Saif Ali Khan, Vidya Balan and Sanjay Dutt.

Founded by the Swiss expatriate couple Mr and Mrs J Flurys, the namesake retreat hardly took time to become everybody’s favourite destination in a jiffy. Both Europeans and well-heeled Indians would flock in droves to the place. Its cauldron introduced authentic Swiss and other global dainties to the city over the decades for several generations.

The place is integral to Kolkata’s food atlas and is indispensable to its passionate gourmands. Like an enduring custodian, Flurys exudes a strong emotion, weaves a drapery of fond memories and forges a nostalgic connect among its consistent customers to cement its bonding so that they return to get a glimpse no matter how many miles they go away.  

Germinating as a sapling, Flurys would once function from a single outlet at Park Street. Gradually, it has fortified its footprint beyond the City of Joy and unveiled stores in New Delhi and Mumbai as cafés, restaurants and kiosks at 68 outlets. It has plans to further expand across the length and breadth of the country across all the A-1 cities.

To be continued....