Style Check (Brooches)

<p style="text-align: center;">Brooding Over Brooches

BY PRAMITA BOSE

Brooches are no longer just another accessory accentuating one’s outfit on a formal occasion. They are now more than what meets the eye. From statement pieces to symbols of protest, brooches — both for men and women — have indeed come a long way. Designers, gem cutters and jewellery makers are viewing these cute little specimens under a different lens to lend a modernistic spin to its aeons-old traditional tale.

The swish set and the glamour industry are visibly gung ho about wearing the new-age brooches on their lapels, sleeves or belts to flaunt their fashion-forwardness and a brooding mind.

Earlier in the year, Academy awardee Cillian Murphy (of Oppenheimer fame) nailed a gem brooch on his suit appearing for his big rewarding night at the Oscars. In recent times, Big B Amitabh Bachchan too grabbed all eyeballs with his wardrobe sporting some wonderful brooches in interesting designs while hosting his TV game show. Also, Bollywood actor Shah Rukh Khan shone with his show-stealing Unicorn brooch at an awards night, while Ambani scion Anant flashed a customised panther brooch at his engagement gala, gifted by his brother Akash Ambani.

Not one to stop there, brooches scored some brownie points as a symbol of political activism when people boasted the same to champion a cause. Famous personalities were of late seen sporting an Artists4Ceasefire enamel pin — red pins on the lapels of their coats — in support of a shared humanitarian movement that demanded an immediate ceasefire in the Gaza war, triggered by the conflict between Israel and Hamas.

Beyond an Accessory

Brooches now encapsulate a classy style as well as a contemplative head. So long, the ornately designed samples remained silently fastened to one’s clothing. But now these small intricate structures add an untapped dimension to one’s personality, enhancing his/her public image and reflecting the wearer’s ruminating mind.

“Brooches are a versatile accessory that adds a touch of value and elegance to the outfits of a person who dons it,” opines designer Paarth Khanna of DRK Jewels, a luxe jewellery brand.

“For men, a well-chosen brooch can elevate the sophistication of a suit or blazer, allowing them to express their individual style subtly. For women, brooches offer an opportunity to add radiance, hue or a focal point to their wardrobe stacked with blazers, scarves and even handbags. The multifaceted quality of brooches lies in their ability to be styled in various ways, making them suitable for formal occasions or lending flair to everyday wear. By affixing these finely crafted treasures to an outfit, designers can highlight specific elements, strike a balance or simply render an artistic finesse to turn a simple garment into a statement piece. Their adaptability and a broad range of designs make brooches a vital asset to be cherished in contemporary fashion,” he further elaborates.

Jewellery designer Archana Aggarwal explains that “brooches serve as worthy embellishments in both masculine and feminine attire, imparting grace and personal panache.”

In Men’s Closet

Brooches have raided man caves bigtime. After honeymooning with ear studs and cuff links for decades, men have found new love in brooches and lapel pins. “Men's ensembles like tailored suits, bandh-galas and achkans, in particular, exude magnificence with a brooch tastefully positioned on the lapel or a pocket square, thus mirroring rich sartorial skills,” instances Aggarwal.

Brooches add a chic twist to men's apparel tales, and the right placement can significantly impact the overall look. “Traditionally, brooches are worn on the left side in men’s cases, which is a nod to the heart's position and aligns with where medals are displayed. This position allows the brooch to stand out without overwhelming the outfit,” views Khanna.

For a classic look, a minute, understated brooch on a tailored suit lapel can add a trait of refinement. For a more casual dayout, a larger or more playful brooch can flatter a denim jacket or a knit cardigan. Brooches also work well with overcoats and trench coats, adding a pop of color or texture to the outerwear. “The key is to match the brooch's style and scale with the ensemble's character, gravity and fabric weight,” chips in Khanna.

Women’s Wardrobe

Brooches go a long way in unleashing a wow appeal in womenswear. Evidently, after diamonds and pearls, brooches are now a lady’s best pal. They can lift diverse getups opted for different moods and settings.

For formal occasions, brooches can be appended to a blazer’s lapel, the shoulder of a dress or the waistline of a gown to zoom in on. On blouses or cardigans, brooches can be used to secure scarves or add a decorative hint to the neckline. When wearing a scarf or a shawl, a brooch can be used to hold the fabric in place with élan.

Reputed designer Neeta Lulla suggests that “women can wear a brooch on a dress, hairband or in the hair. It is routinely fitted to the sarees to hold the nine-yard drape together in place. A brooch looks interesting when fixed on a sari pleat, thus holding all the pleats together and showcasing the brooch slightly to the side.”

The brooch also goes one level up when it’s worn on an androgynous suit or when it comes to coords and power dressing for women. It can also be pinned on corsages looking quite pleasing to the eye. “Hence, the fairer sex has a great deal of variations to choose from,” she proposes.

Brooches also work well with accessories like hats, bags and belts, providing additional styling options. Khanna affirms that “the purpose of wearing a brooch is to complement an outfit, offering an enigmatic charm without overpowering the look.”

“Brooches can work wonders in women's costumes ranging from sarees, dresses to coats and blouses, achieving exclusivity, poise and heightened superiority over the rest,” praises Aggarwal.

Shapes to Gape at

Brooches exhibit an assorted array of shapes, including flora, fauna-inspired, geometric, abstract, figurative designs, catering to varied aesthetic preferences. A host of carefully cutout brooches marries distinctive tastes and affairs. From the most familiar floral motif with its organic feel to geometric shapes like circles, squares and triangles, dispensing a modern and contemporary vibe, brooches let the creator’s imagination run riot. Animal motifs are also popular, with birds, butterflies and other creatures unveiling an emblematic attribute to the accessory. Vintage brooch shapes often incorporate complex filigree patterns and art deco features, attracting those who appreciate a classic or retro style.

Motif Magic

Fashion fundas keep altering with each passing day right from the age-old customary styles to today’s innovative avant-garde vision. Unconventional cuts and motifs dominate the art of fashioning brooches in the present-day design domain. 

“Geometric shapes, ancient designs, natural motifs like leaves or petals and abstract art-inspired pieces are lapped up by the brooch-besotted buyers,” exemplifies Aggarwal. 

Classic cuts like round or oval shapes are quite common, often featuring complicated detailing or precious stones for an extra dash of glamour. More modish brooches may use asymmetrical cuts, symmetrical lines or surreal designs, offering a bold and otherworldly lure. Blossoms, beasts and insects incorporate a trace of wilderness into one’s fashion stories. Moreover, themed brooches, such as hearts, stars or musical notes are widely used to convey special messages or express emotive sentiments and personal inclinations.

Palette Power

Brooches are not estranged from palette passion. Classic colours like gold, silver and black are popular for their timeless temptation and compatibility with a variety of clothing. These neutral tones can provide a delicate accent on casual outfits and raise the bar for formal garbs. Brooches with vibrant shades like red, blue, green or pink are often used to add a splash of colour to an otherwise dull wardrobe in monochromes. Multicoloured brooches can be fun and they frequently capture the essence of nature with floral or fauna designs. Besides, pastel tints like light blue, soft pink or lavender compliment feminine brooch styles.

Aggarwal concedes that “the luxuriant gold, vivid reds, brilliant blues and gorgeous greens in a happy harmony with disparate design sensibilities adorn brooches to glow with an inimitable dazzle.”

Material Impact

Brooches are painstakingly crafted from a vast canvas of premium materials, including precious metals, gemstones, enamel, pearls, crystals and acrylic, ensuring an unrelenting workmanship and an enduring finish.

The make of brooches implies a lavish business and myriad applications.

Metals denoting affluence like gold, silver and platinum are commonly used to construct brooches for their durability and classic charisma. The expensive yellow and white metals target the high-end market or a ceremonial formal occasion, providing a sense of opulence.

Base metals like brass and copper are also used, especially in more casual or costume brooches, offering an affordable alternative with an old world charm. In addition, brooches often fit in gemstones, such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires or emeralds, adding a lot of pizzazz.

Fabric Favourites

It’s true that brooches get along well with a variety of fabrics but some textiles are specifically suited for this beautiful accessory. Wool and tweed, normally used in coats and blazers, provide a sturdy and thick surface for ideally heavier or larger brooches to stay safe and tight. Cotton and linen, found in shirts and dresses, also work well with lightweight or mini brooches. Silk and satin, often used in formal wear, can be decked with brooches but care should be taken enough to avoid damaging the delicate fabric.

“In these cases, brooches with smoother pins or clasps are recommended,” reminds Khanna. Velvet is another fabric that complements brooches as its plush texture enhances the brooch's visual impact.

“A brooch can be made of many different stuffs but it's important to consider its weight and style to ensure that it accompanies the garment the right way without distorting it,” cautions Khanna.

Aggarwal agrees that “matching fabrics like silk, wool and tweed blend seamlessly with brooches, leading to their proper placement without spoiling the fabric.”

Bold Brooches

Many wear message-driven or statement pins to convey a noble cause for larger interest or something very significant. Can such an accessory be impactful as a symbol of dissent or a social mouthpiece amid a crowd?

“Statement brooches wield immense influence as a sign of protest or social advocacy, embodying powerful messages that resonate with larger audiences, fostering a dialogue and widespread awareness,” reasons Aggarwal.

Such accessories have become increasingly popular as tools for driving consciousness about social issues. They can disseminate thought-provoking ideas through slogans, or motifs, allowing wearers to express their beliefs or back a cause without words.

“By wearing such trinkets, individuals can initiate conversations, build awareness and even motivate others to join a movement or take necessary action. These accessories are often used to show solidarity rallying around a group or rooting for a righteous cause, such as pink ribbons for cancer awareness or peace symbols for anti-war movements,” imparts Khanna.

The impact of these brooches lies in their visibility and ability to create a sense of unity among wearers. “As an understated yet potent form of self-expression, insightful brooches or badges offer a route for individuals to align their fashion choices with their philosophy, thus stimulating minds and inciting a larger debate in public interest at a time when visual communication is highly effective,” he sums up.

Ornate Obsession

Ornamented brooches laden with precious stones stand out of the crowd with exquisite beauty. “Dazzling diamonds are known for their lustre and radiance, while rubies emit a rich red shade to signify smouldering passion. Sapphires with their deep blue hue and emeralds with their vibrant green tone are also frequently incorporated into our designs. Additionally, we use pearls punctuated with classicism and agelessness,” lists Khanna.

“These ornate brooches are meticulously crafted with attention to detail and an emphasis is laid on its high-quality materials, ensuring that they serve as preserved pieces that can be passed down through generations or pinned on special occasions,” he further notes.

Aggarwal informs that “her in-house line of ornate brooches is usually studded with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and pearls, instilling in the spread a sense of extravagance and smart sophistication.”

Royal Affair

Brooches may ooze a regal verve, giving the whole get-up an edge on others. “Brooches definitely add a royal element to any given outfit, thanks to their historical association with kingly realms, aristocracy and nobility. They always found favour with royalty, emerged as trappings of status and power. A well-picked brooch instantly adds grandeur to any outfit, be it formal or casual, thus bracketing it with the elitists. For instance, a decorative floral brooch on a lapel, a glittery gem-studded piece on a gown or a vintage-inspired bauble on a scarf can all contribute to a royal aura,” imparts Khanna.

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