Fashion Forward (Spiritual Sari)

Sari: The Spiritual Odyssey 

The global sari movement notices the long drape to conquer the ramps at overseas fashion fests. The 21^st century couture story unveils models in spiritual saris to sashay down the runways of the prestigious Paris, New York and Los Angeles fashion weeks, thus rewriting the sari’s journey from anonymity to re-influencing the foreign perception of Indian fashion. The garment is now an international phenomenon.

Fashion designer Anjali Phougat in one of her creations

By PRAMITA BOSE 

Fashion designers draw inspiration from different corners of the world to script their own runway stories. Walking the spiritual route is one such import on the ramps of global fashion weeks to spin devotion, sentiments, recollections, nostalgia, aesthetics, visual delight, sartorial skills, indigenous craftsmanship, knowledge and insight. Among the current-day drapers, Vaishali S and Bibhu Mohapatra have beautifully showcased their piety into artistic creations of yarns, fabrics, hues, themes, needle and the thread.

On one hand, Vaishali S had unveiled her spiritual couture line Satori at the 2024 chapter of Paris Haute Couture Week, while on the other, Mohapatra painted the essence of pilgrimage to holy sites that faithful devotees embark upon at the recent Fall-Winter 2025 edition of the New York Fashion Week.

Vaishali’s collection reflected the beauty of complex and elaborate artisanship of Indian handlooms. Her work was message-driven, conveying the importance of zero-waste techniques as sustainability is the buzzword in all industrial sectors now, including the domain of fashion. Designers are visibly vocal about saving the environment and minimising production trash with slow, recycling and green fashion. She merged convention with the chic elegantly.

Dwelling on the Zen Buddhist philosophy of Satori that invokes calm, transparency, simplicity and practicality, her sari series came alive through meaningful symbols and images. The methods of draping and cording as well as detailed textures conjured up an illusory quality of a continuous flux.

Other notable names dedicating their creative pieces to religious concepts and iconography include the who’s who of the fashion glitterati like Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta, Amit Aggarwal, et al. From Antevorta, the ancient Roman goddess of future and childbirth, to the Hindu God Brahma and the mighty force of the sun god to paying a tribute to shunya or the zilch and nothingness, designers have time and again borrowed spiritual contexts in their splendid creations with prosthetics and sculpted add-ons.

Call it a nine-yard drape in its erstwhile form or the six-yard weave as its new entity, the sari unveils mystery and wonder in every fold, pleat and crease of its expanse. Reimagined by a gaggle of contemporary designers, today’s saris have a modern take on its traditional tales. No longer caught in a time warp, the hand-loomed or machine-made saris weave a tapestry of unique patterns, motifs, styles, materials and techniques to tell a different story through its vertical and horizontal arrangement of threads.

The yesteryear narrative is painstakingly converted to experimental ideas, shades, cuts, finishes, hand-embellished or crafted and painted fables. The sari is redefined with novelty from an elegant costume to a spiritual wear with exquisite visual appeal and sanctity.

Divine Drapes

Though it’s a customary practice to don the conventional fabric and hues on devotional as well as festive occasions, the textile industry has, however, consciously innovated and spun the eons-old holy fashion sentiment into its new-age avatar. The sari, for instance, has undergone a revolutionary makeover over time with avante garde designs, prints, choice of palette, intertwining and embroidery techniques, et al.

Sewing an aesthetic sartorial story of religious myths, legends, themes and imageries like the patachitras (rustic storytellers with scrolls of pictorial portraits) of rural India, the sari has steadily transformed into a canvas of creative efflorescence by skilled artisans and seamsters. The latest fad is the divine drape wherein the unstitched cascading loose volume of silken material unfolds a spiritual saga.

Moving over the ethnic crimson- or yellow-bordered white sari or the ones with a beige, chrome, ochre or mustard base, the contemporary clump of designers is expanding and exploring the medium with unorthodox ideas and expressions.

“The sari is retracing its roots as a pious couture with religious symbolism, iconography and drawings of lines, figures and shapes. It’s no longer a mere garment but a book of cultural heritage, profound emotions and religious history. Saris can be ideal wearable meditations to woo the hip-and-the-happening younger lot, which doesn’t hesitate to wear ‘humanity’ as its religion on the sleeve and at the same time, willingly transcend the cloth to a bold and gritty style statement,” opines eminent fashion designer Anjali Phougat.

Unique Oeuvre

Adding depth, meaning and thoughtfulness to her wardrobe of sari collection with interesting signs and symbols, a lady who’s a staunch sari lover can easily include the everlasting charm of Radha-Krishna duo, Shiv Shakti and the swastika mark with élan. The borders helmed with temple motifs and the pallu bedecked with eye-grabbing panels of religious parables truly stand out from the clutter of hollow and garish presentations.

“Worldwide, clotheshorses and art aficionados are looking for a breather from the glut of kitschy works and the noisy fast fashion that are leaving the creative landscape gasping for some substantial evolution,” reports Phougat.

The frescoes on the walls of sacred sites depicting mythological sights and saintly philosophies mutter secrets of the ancient past. How about replicating the same on your saris via satin yarns? The soulful amorous bonding between Radha and Lord Krishna comes alive in soothing tones with delicate brushwork describing Vrindavan’s serene beauty. Accents of crystals shimmer on the lustrous silk like a divine halo. It has an aura of its own.

Lord Shiva or Mahadev embodies the cosmic balance of both masculine and feminine energies. Phougat’s exclusive line fuses intricate tantric geometry and sacred symbols with vigorous brushstrokes and a fine, artistic calligraphy of Vedic mantras. “It’s not just a piece of garment. It’s a resounding reminder that both destruction and creation are part of every shift that the Almighty brings about on this earth’s crust. It serves up the required balance to sustain order and stability,” avers Phougat.

Referring to saris with spiritual symbols like the lotus, meditation bell, pigeons, a trishul, a cross, Lord Buddha’s image or Radha-Krishna’s depiction of love and courtship amid the Vrindavan gardens, fashion designer Shilpi Gupta thinks that as a designer, she absolutely loves the fact that “a sari can comfortably carry spiritual symbols without distorting or disrespecting their gravity. It’s not just a fabric but an outburst of feelings, historical episodes and traditional beliefs, all woven together in warp and weft fibres.”

“These saris with scriptures and religious allegories are tasseled with personal attachments, almost like they are digging up your story without saying a word,” she further chips in. The lotus speaks of growth, the trishul of strength and Radha-Krishna with gopinis (village cowherd belles) and the holy cow of love and devotion. “When done with seriousness and caution, these details lend a meaningful value to the costume. It’s fashion with a soul and honestly, there’s something surreal about wearing a sari that connects you to the godly identity up in the heavens,” she reasons.

The significance of linear positions and geometrical shapes and sizes is difficult to ignore. The striking swastika sari — an ancient Hindu emblem — is reintroduced in all its glory as a mark of auspiciousness, eternity and divine alignment. The soft, sparkling gold thread on a field of ivory silk essays an inspiring account of abundance, clarity and courage with the swastik symbol surrounded by cosmic motifs, lotus flowers and the sun mandalas.

Wedding Wows

Saris printed with Christian symbols witness a surge in demand during the peak of wedding season. Thanks to the spike in e-commerce and people’s online shopping frenzy that would-be brides book made-to-order saris featuring motifs like the holy cross, white doves and Biblical verses in stylised fonts. The followers of the faith hold angels, cherubs and religious quotes in highest regard.

“On your big day when you walk down the aisle, you want to look best and happy in the most appropriate attire you’ve carefully chosen for yourself. Apart from the love, affection and best wishes showered by your near and dear ones, you’d like to feel blessed. What more to ask for if you have divinity on your side on that special day! The images and symbols of reverence speak for themselves,” gushes the soon-to-be hitched 25-yearold school teacher Jenny Smith.

Community Bonding

Ace designer Jebin Johny recalls that he “did a collection titled Nasrani, which tells the story of Kerala Syrian Catholics. I am a nasrani (a member of the Saint Thomas Christian community in Kerala) myself and all my ancestors hail from Israel (Jews) and other adjacent countries.” The collection received mixed reviews and included paintings as well as Catholic icons and symbols.

Religious elements and beliefs can be displayed with noble intention on one’s outfits though colours, quotes, motifs and divine verses. “During Easter celebrations, we commonly wear white as it’s the symbol of tranquility, innocence, cleanliness and a fresh beginning. On Christmas too, many revellers sport spiritual costumes,” he further maintains.

Calm of Mind

Buddhist symbols too witness a wide craze when it comes to importing motifs for designing auspicious apparel. Be it embarking on the conjugal route with lifelong contentment or wearing white on Buddha purnima (commemorates the birth, enlightenment and death of Gautam Buddha), knitted and woven textiles with principles of Buddhism can help discover and arouse the Zen avatar inside you or to soothe your exhausted nerves. Devout monks say that the tenets of Buddhism can work like an elixir on a distressed mind and a derailed life to bring it back on track.

The Eightfold Path doctrine and the eight symbols that bode well comprise the parasol, conch shell, two golden fish, lotus flower (connotes spiritual awakening and rebirth as the flower blossoms from a muddy watery bed), victory banner, dharma wheel (dharmachakra or the eight-spoked wheel represents Buddha’s teachings), vase and endless knot (eternity knot denoting the cyclical nature of life) — all prominently engraved in the arts as well as on the emblems of Buddhism. Incidentally, Lord Buddha stands for knowledge, self-discovery, soul-searching and enlightenment.

A sari embossed with the symbols bearing peepal leaves, the Bodhi tree, a bull, mala beads (counting the beads on a rosary), victory banner (triumph of wisdom over temptation and ignorance), the mandala art (a circular design or pattern delineating the cosmos or deities in different celestial spheres) or even portrayals of monks in meditation subtly convey messages carrying a deeper meaning and character.

“Mindfulness, sympathy and compassion lend a lot of weight to the designs printed on a sari, thus providing a perfect opportunity to gift a loved one,” volunteers a curator of an art-and-artifacts’ store.

Fashion With Austerity

The ambit of modest fashion witnesses saris worn with hijabs as a common trend. A sari can be styled or draped in a way so that it creates a head cover alike the headscarf hijab or a separate hijab can be tied around the head along with the sari.

Delhi-based PR professional Reshma Hussain prefers tying her hijab as she feels “more comfortable that way” and also likes “the way it looks”. Stylists advise on using a sari’s pallu to cover the head and shoulders imitating a hijab. Pins and accessories could also staple the sari-hijab pair to keep both in place, safe and secure. Point to be noted is that hijabs or the head scarf are never stitched to the sari.

Many women wear hijabs at religious sites (as per the guidelines set by authorities concerned) as a gesture of respect and devotion or on festivities with social gatherings like Eid celebrations at the end of the Holy Ramadan month.

“Usually, when I go out or travel, I wear a hijab. But at home, I don’t always put it on. Instead, I cover my head with a dupatta from my dress or the pallu of my sari. Particularly, at the time of the Azaan (call to prayer or to offer namaz), we always cover our heads, whether it’s with a hijab, a sari pallu or a dress dupatta. See, women generally do not go to the mosque to offer namaz or attend any prayer session in public. They usually pray in the privacy of their abode and domesticity with full modesty by covering their heads properly with a hijab,” she reveals.

Several ladies prefer donning custom-made hijabs to suit their styles and preferences and often opt for the same from a specific boutique. “There are many shops in the market that cater to diverse tastes with good options. I generally do some window shopping before shortlisting a few pieces and then buy the ones that seem my favourites,” she inputs.

Gen Z Outlook

But one wonders whether this trend can entice the hipster youngsters as well. Are they attracted to these saris more as a fashionable artwork rather than a devotional outfit?

“The millennials have a unique way of liaising with traditional pieces like the saris. They are not always wearing them for spiritual purposes but more as a form of self-expression and storytelling. To them, a lotus or a Radha-Krishna motif isn’t just religious — it’s symbolic, artistic and evocative. They perceive spiritual saris as wearable garbs with a mind kept open to modern interpretations,” notes Gupta.

“What’s even more fascinating is how they mix customs with individuality, styling a sari with sneakers and bold accessories. This generation is hooked on the ‘cocktail’ concept, which is but steeped in originality,” she insists.

When enquired if she’s open to the Gen Z fashionistas’ idea of wearing a hijab as a style statement and giving it their own spin with colours, motifs and design experiments, Hussain emphasises that “many are doing this for fashion’s sake, to set a new look or to appear stylish. In my opinion, there’s nothing wrong in it. Everyone has the right to choose pertaining to their likes and dislikes. However, the hijab is a very sober and virtuous garment meant for covering with minimal skin exposure. Hence, it should be treated with same gravity and admiration as it command attention because of its unique styling for commercial reasons.”

Power of Precious Stones

The sari surface studded with healing crystals unleashes a positive impact on the wearer’s mind and body, exuding healthy energies and optimism. Every placement of amethyst, quartz and pearl is intentional with a view to harmonise the chakras (spinning disks of energy or energy points in human body) and vitalise the wearer from within.

Ethical Fashion

The sacred style file also amalgamates responsible fashion practices ensuring hygienic working conditions, fair-labour rules and satisfactory wages, obtaining sustainable resources and guaranteeing zero carbon footprint throughout the cycle of production. The future looks bright.

The current crop of designers is also collaborating with artisans and temple painters from across India to revive the dying and forgotten art forms and inject a fresh lease of life in the communities involved in giving fruition to the artworks that are struggling for survival on the verge of near extinction. “The endangered artforms must get a platform in high fashion. That’s why each of my saris comes with a QR-coded certificate, linking the purchaser to its spiritual worth, besides the sari maker or the artisan’s background and the care rituals to preserve its rich legacy,” conveys Phougat.

Spinning Tales in Strands

Designer-entrepreneur Dipti Singh who runs her sari business from home by the brand name Sanskritii raves about the attractive quality of luxe Baluchari saris and pure Bishnupuri silk saris, popularly known for their depiction of mythological scenes.

“Baluchari saris bedecked with fine meenakari (enameling: ancient art of decorating metal surfaces by fusing powdered glass onto them only to create stunning intricate designs) work by a bunch of skilled weavers are a treat to the eyes! These saris are lapped up for their detailed patterns and handwork,” she apprises.

Tales from the great epics of The Mahabharata, The Ramayana or The Bhagavad Gita — the sacred religious tome on Hinduism — often find a generous place in these saris, thus making them inimitable masterpieces and the wearer a show stealer.

Emblazoned with the beautiful ancient crafts of bawan buti (an assortment of 52 motifs) and Madhubani (Mithila region) paintings of Bihar apart from the ornate kalamkari, phulkari, zariwork, block printing that deftly illustrate those seldom-heard folklores of sleepy hamlets that are now found scattered in the sepia-toned pages of archived chronicles — the spiritual couture could be unwrapped in miscellaneous materials with silk being the dominant fabric. This could be a connoisseur’s item who understands and appreciates art and its value. “Kanchipuram, Banarasi and Maheshwari silk saris win hands down as the majority is all agog to grab a pick,” informs a salesman of a South Kolkata sari emporium.

Prism of Colours

The handloom and boutique craftsmen incorporates silk, malmal cotton, zari, sateen and organza fabrics along with a riot of resplendent colours like the peacock blue, lotus pink, plus plenty of greens and violets. White has a pivotal presence in the sartorial line as it symbolises peace, simplicity, harmony and purity. It is a pristine pigment. Overall, the spectrum has a varied range. Research shows that materials, namely silk, lace, net or georgette, come in different styles with a splash of shades to fashion bridal outfits.

Hijabs are also fashioned out of many different materials but the cotton make is a hot seller as it is mostly owned by the buyers. “Given our country’s humid climate, this variety doesn’t feel too warm and it ties well, and don’t get undone frequently,” Hussain shares. Reflecting on her colour choice, she likes picking black the most. But prompted by a sultry weather, she often settles for lighter dyes like the beige, baby pink or the sky blue.

Pocket Pinch

The relevant question that crops up here is whether the saris with religious emblems are pegged with expensive price points or not. “Not really considering that such a unique collection targets the high-end segment in the market. So its rates speak accordingly. It starts from roughly 199 USD and goes up depending on the fabric like those glossy Kanjivaram silks as well as other factors. The approximate Indian price band would span from Rs 15,000 onwards,” argues Phougat.

Affair With Accessories

In the footwear section, “decorative juttis and mojaris laden with stone and zariwork can accentuate the spiritual sari’s worth, while accessories like jewellery with pearls, emeralds and rubies in addition to traditional jhumkas and bangles should best compliment a religious drape,” Phougat lends styling tips.

Walking a Tightrope

“You see, religion is a very sensitive issue and one has to quite cautiously tread a very fine line not to spark any controversy or hurt somebody’s sentiments. For instance, if an artist contemplates designing saris with the glorified images of Mother Mary and Lord Jesus, he or she could face an immense backlash from the purists and custodians of the faith. So some things better be left untouched. Why unnecessarily trigger a row? Artistic expression should have both liberty and censorship. One must know where to draw the line,” comments Johny.

As the youth is always keen on trying out new things, for them slipping into garments with a mystical vibe and spiritual quality is like taking the fashion world by storm. Fashion houses and clothes makers also see this trend as a business enterprise with great prospects and a profit motive to net in economic gains at the end of the day. Little do they dwell on its impact on the society at large or apprehend any untoward ramifications like that of a communal conflict, if any. However, the old-school thinkers might disapprove such disruptive ideas, terming the same as a deviation from the true path and essence of practising one’s religious faith with a clear heart and conscience like a loyal devotee.

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